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Chandarkhani Pass: Naggar–Malana Trek

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Chandarkhani Pass

Image Source: Vidhan Shah

About Chandarkhani Pass

Chandarkhani Pass is one of Himachal Pradesh’s most scenic trekking routes that connects Naggar to Malana. The moderate to challenging trek typically takes three days and is best attempted between May and November. During this time the trails are mostly clear of snow, and the weather is favorable.

Historical and Cultural Significance

The trail is more than just a mountain crossing. According to local legend, the Chandrakhani Pass is where the powerful deity Jamlu Rishi opened his basket of gods and scattered them across the Kullu Valley. From this story, Kullu got the reputation as the “Valley of Gods.” Every peak and meadow in the region holds spiritual importance.

Naggar, once the capital of the Kullu kingdom, is steeped in history. Don’t miss the Naggar Castle , an ancient royal residence turned heritage hotel; the beautiful Tripura Sundari temple , and the Nicholas Roerich Art Gallery , dedicated to the Russian painter who fell in love with the valley’s serene beauty.

Naggar to Rumsu Camp (6–8 hours)

Your journey begins with a steady climb from Naggar (about 1800 m) along a traditional mule track. The trail meanders through deodar and pine forests, reaching Rumsu village (2200 m)—a small Himachali settlement that still preserves its rustic charm.

Trekkers often camp near Rumsu or push further up through mixed oak and rhododendron forests, where ample campsites provide good shelter, firewood, and fresh water sources. It’s advisable to cover more ground on this day to ease the next day’s demanding climb.

Above Rumsu, trails frequently branch out, and it’s surprisingly easy to lose the main path—local guidance is invaluable for staying on course.

Rumsu to Chandarkhani Pass (3500 m) and Descent to Malana (6–8 hours)

The second leg of the trek is both rewarding and demanding. The climb up to Chandarkhani Pass is a steady ascent through lush alpine pastures, wildflower-laden meadows, and occasional snow patches lingering well into June.

Unlike many other passes in the region, the final ridge walk is broad and gently undulating, making the approach less punishing than one might expect. Once atop the Chandarkhani ridge (3500 m) , you are greeted by awe-inspiring views of the Pir Panjal , Dhauladhar , and far-off Himalayan peaks like Deo Tibba and Indrasan .

The descent to Malana is where caution is paramount. The direct trail drops steeply and can be slippery, especially if the ground is wet. A safer but longer option is the Dadru forest route, which meanders through thick coniferous woods, gradually easing trekkers down to the ancient village.

Stage 3: Exploring Malana (2652 m) and Exit

Malana is famous worldwide for its unique customs , ancient democratic council system, and taboos surrounding outsiders. Its villagers believe themselves to be descendants of Alexander the Great’s soldiers, maintaining strict codes to protect their culture. Visitors must respect local rules—avoid touching temple walls, carrying leather goods inside village precincts, or photographing certain sacred sites .

Malana consists of two parts—Upper and Lower Malana—set apart by a small open space. From here, trekkers usually descend towards Jari, the nearest roadhead, about 12 km away, or continue deeper towards the Rashol Pass (Rashol Jot) for those wanting to extend their adventure.

What Makes This Trek Special

Dramatic Ridge Views: The broad Chandarkhani ridge offers a rare chance to walk along a high-altitude path with 360-degree panoramas.

Cultural Crossroads: Few trails blend dramatic mountain scenery with such a rich folk legend and unique village traditions.

Wildlife and Flora: Expect to pass through forests alive with pheasants, Himalayan monals, and blooming rhododendrons in late spring.

Easy Access: Starting from Naggar makes the trek accessible from Kullu–Manali without a long approach drive.

Tips for Trekkers

Always respect Malana’s customs to avoid offending villagers.

Hire a local guide, especially for the final descent.

Be prepared for sudden weather changes near the pass.

The trek can be combined with nearby routes like the Rashol Pass or extended towards Kasol for a longer Parvati Valley circuit.

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